Smeg FAB28 Refrigerator Not Cooling: Diagnosis and Repair Guide

⚠️ SAFETY WARNING / SERIOUS RISK. This appliance operates with critically dangerous components (High Voltage, Temperatures, or Gas). Improvised DIY repairs of critical devices can be fatal or prohibited by law. Physical intervention requires qualified specialized technicians to issue compliant safety certificates. ReeFix provides this diagnosis EXCLUSIVELY for educational and informational purposes.

INITIAL SCENARIO

Your Smeg FAB28 is no longer cooling. You hear a distinct "click" coming from the back, near the compressor, every few minutes. After the click, the compressor does not start and remains off for a while, then tries to restart and the click repeats. Inside the fridge, the temperature rises.

IMMEDIATE DIAGNOSIS

The "click" heard is the compressor's overload protector engaging, indicating that the compressor is attempting to start but failing. The most probable causes, in order of frequency, are:

1. Faulty Start Relay (45%): The most common component. It does not provide the initial boost needed by the compressor.
2. Defective Start Capacitor (35%): It does not store or release the charge to give the compressor a "boost".
3. Stuck or Internally Faulty Compressor (15%): The compressor motor is mechanically stuck or has internal electrical problems (windings).
4. Thermostat/Control Problem (5%): Less likely to cause the direct click, but can send intermittent or incorrect signals.

QUICK TEST (for a qualified technician)

⚠️ Remember: any physical check must be performed by a qualified technician with the appliance unplugged from the power.

1. Listen for the "click": Confirm it comes from the compressor.
2. Visual Inspection of Relay and Capacitor: With the fridge unplugged, remove the compressor compartment cover. Look for signs of burns, bulges, or leaks on the Start Relay (Compressor Relay) and the Start Capacitor (Compressor Capacitor).
3. Resistance Check (Multimeter): A technician would measure the resistance of the compressor windings and the continuity/capacity of the relay and capacitor with a Multimeter.
4. Power Supply Check: Ensure that the power supply to the compressor is stable and correct.

MOST PROBABLE DIAGNOSIS

Considering the persistent "click" symptom, it is highly probable (about 80% of cases) that the problem lies in the compressor's starting circuit, specifically in the relay or start capacitor. These components are designed to provide the initial boost to the compressor motor, and when they fail, the compressor cannot start, triggering the overload protection.

ESTIMATED COSTS

• Parts (Relay or Capacitor): Approximately 20€ - 50€ (Amazon | eBay).
• Labor (Qualified Technician): 70€ - 150€ for replacement.
• Estimated Total Cost for Relay/Capacitor: 90€ - 200€.

If the problem were the compressor itself, costs would rise drastically:

• Compressor Replacement Part: 200€ - 500€+.
• Labor (with gas recharge): 150€ - 300€+.
• Estimated Total Cost for Compressor: 350€ - 800€+.

COMMON ERRORS

• Ignoring the "click": Thinking it's a normal noise or that the fridge will "recover". The click indicates an active problem that stresses the compressor.
• Replacing only the compressor: If the fault is in the relay or capacitor and the compressor is replaced directly, much more money is spent unnecessarily.
• Lack of cleaning: A dirty condenser or insufficient ventilation does not directly cause the "click", but can lead to overheating and stress the starting components, accelerating their failure.

REAL CASES

• Case 1 (45% probability): Your Smeg FAB28 is 5 years old. The technician, after unplugging the appliance, finds the start relay visibly burned. Replacing it with a 30€ part, the fridge restarts immediately. Total cost 110€.
• Case 2 (35% probability): The refrigerator is 8 years old. The click is intermittent. The technician tests the start capacitor and detects insufficient capacity. After replacing the capacitor (25€), the compressor resumes regular operation. Total cost 105€.
• Case 3 (15% probability): A 12-year-old fridge. The click is loud and frequent. The technician checks the relay and capacitor, which are found to be intact. Measuring the compressor windings reveals an internal short circuit. Compressor replacement is necessary, with a high cost.

WHEN THIS IS NOT THE CASE

If the compressor runs continuously but does not cool and you do not hear any "click", it is much less likely that the problem is the start relay or capacitor. In that case, the probabilities shift towards a problem with the sealed system (refrigerant leak, capillary blockage) or a thermostat failure that is not calling for cooling. Fan failures (evaporator or condenser) can also cause poor cooling but rarely a direct "click" from the compressor.